Colourful chaos at the last frontier

Colourful chaos at the last frontier

February 20th 2023, Cúcuta Well over seven million Venezuelans have fled their homeland in recent years. For a country of some 30 million people, that’s close to a quarter of the population upping sticks and getting out. In effect, Venezuela is bleeding people,...
¡Hola! gringa!

¡Hola! gringa!

Cúcuta market, February 18th 2023. “Where are you from?” the car passenger shouted at me out his window, smiling, as we were both stopped at traffic lights.”Irlanda, Irrr-land-ah. Ireland,” I shouted back.”Amazing! Amazing! Welcome to...
The square

The square

February 11th 2023, Ibague, Colombia. The square is dirty and black and filthy and it gets to look worse as the dusk turns to night. It’s a square that goes nowhere. That is to say, it leads nowhere. You don’t drive or stroll into this square, marvel at...
Into Colombia

Into Colombia

February 8th 2013, Ipiales, Colombia. “What do you think,” I said to the Ecuadoran customs officer in military-style uniform sitting under the little canopy by the roadside, “he gave me 86,000 Colombian pesos for $20. Is that good?” The customs...