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Cabo Blanco, an old man and the sea

Cabo Blanco, an old man and the sea

January 25th 2023, Cabo Blanco.There are a couple of ways out of Paita. One is directly back onto the Panamericana. OK. So we know what that heralds -- a flashy duel carriageway north and out of Peru. The other is a lesser, local road that hugs the coast and...

Faded elegance of old whaling port that still lands big catches

Faded elegance of old whaling port that still lands big catches

January 21st 2023, Paita, Peru. Paita on the north coast of Peru close to the border with Ecuador is a place easily overlooked. Its small enough not to make much of a dent on most maps -- even though it calls itself a city and has a population close to 200,000 -- and...

Protests erupt again and a high Andes road disappears into tunnels

Protests erupt again and a high Andes road disappears into tunnels

January 19th 2023, Pacasmayo, northern Peru.I spent a little time today seeking to reassure various people, not least my wife Moira that, whatever they might hear about Peru over the coming days, I was OK, far removed from the likely epicenter and well on my way out...

Cusco and Machu Picchu

Cusco and Machu Picchu

Cusco and Machu PichuThe mountains nestle Cusco in their palm.The arms of three great Andean cordilleras -- Vilcabamba, Urubamba and Vilcanola -- come together and where they meet, there is something of a natural bowl in the landscape. That's where Cusco is, at 3,416...

Navigating Peru’s trail of anger and bloodshed

Navigating Peru’s trail of anger and bloodshed

January 14th 2023 Pisco, Peru.Hundreds of trucks are lined up on the road out of Puquio, a medium-sized town in south central Peru, home to some 15,000 people. The line of vehicles snakes back into the town, right back into the center where the streets are clogged...

Patricio Corcoran 1954 — 2023

Patricio Corcoran 1954 — 2023

January 13th 2023, Lima.Well, this is a blog I wish I was not writing. I have just learnt of the death of my friend, benefactor and guardian angel in Punta Arenas, Patricio Corcoran. He died yesterday, apparently after a short illness, but more I know not. He was only...

A great white nothingness

A great white nothingness

December 30th 2022, Uyuni, Bolivia.Uyuni is famous to outsiders for two things: its train cemetery and its ginormous salt flat -- transport and minerals: the story of Bolivia, in so many ways.The city's main drag is called Avenida Ferroviaria and the raised median...

Into Bolivia and parts unknown

Into Bolivia and parts unknown

December 28th, Villa Alota, Bolivia.For the first time on this adventure, I am about to enter pastures entirely new to me. Before this visit to Chile, I had already been to Patagonia, to the Central Valley and to the Atacama. But never to Bolivia; never to Peru and,...

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