Into Colombia

Into Colombia

February 8th 2013, Ipiales, Colombia. “What do you think,” I said to the Ecuadoran customs officer in military-style uniform sitting under the little canopy by the roadside, “he gave me 86,000 Colombian pesos for $20. Is that good?” The customs...
Quito and middle earth

Quito and middle earth

February 8th 2023, Quito Even before arriving in Quito, things were starting to look good. When I’m biking, I tend to just ride and when I’m hungry, I stop somewhere that looks vaguely OK and eat whatever is going. Well, rattling along the Panamericana E35...
An election day feast in Ecuador

An election day feast in Ecuador

February 5th 2023, Riobamba. Leaving Guayaquil was a relief, to be honest. I had done next to no biking in the previous 10 days and I was beginning to feel guilty. Yes, I had gone from the city down to the coast and spent two days at a resort named Playas. But that...